Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Satunalia

This morning I thought, "Please, God. Get me off this island. And please, God, out of Thailand." I'm not sure the Thais like me so much. It makes me miss South America. The people. The landscape. And yet, check out the landscape. Sometimes, we just don't realize things, do we? I saw the sunrise this morning, up early to catch a boat. I made it on the ferry back to the mainland and I'm singing the theme song to Reading Rainbow. Remember that one?? I hope it's a good sign.

Everywhere you turn in Thailand, there are photos of the monarchy. On the sides of buildings, outside peoples' homes, inside their homes, they are everywhere. While I am far from royalty, I cannot imagine what it must be like to have your picture displayed literally everywhere. At first I thought it was out of homage or pride, which may still ring true, but I'm wondering also if by chance the images are erected, for example, on an overpass because the royal family sponsored the building of it. Or perhaps, it's keeping up with the Joneses, and that you're uncool if you don't have a clock with the face of the royal family. Who knows?

I am bound for Satun today in a full air-conditioned minivan. We just passed what looked like a cemetery. Small monuments built into the side of a hill, like a mini memorial built for a family or person, it looks like a place for prayer. It makes me wonder. What is the custom here for death? Burial rites? We also just passed a mosque. Good sign. The closer you get to Malaysia (the closer I'm out of Thailand), the religion and culture shifts more to Muslim.

At Hat Yai, the sky opened up and began monsoon season, I'm afraid. Unable to drive, I got stalled for an hour en route to Satun. To anyone ever traveling through Surat Thani, Thailand to Langkawi, Malaysia: DO NOT buy a ferry ticket for Langkawi ahead of time. I repeat, DO NOT buy your ferry ticket from anyone but the ferry ticket seller. Yes, it's official. I got scammed. Have I mentioned that I'm ready for a new country? Oh, and on a personal note, somewhere between Samui and Satun, I developed body odor. The horror!

So, Satun. My last stop in Thailand for now. I'm staying at Odumsuk Hotel and the manager is really nice. She gave me a bottle of water once in my room, and there are 2 glasses, 2 towels, 2 pillows. A'ight! Walking the small town streets, I can hear singing in the background. It's beautiful. I think it's a Muslim prayer or call to worship. This town is a mix of Malay and Thai, Muslim, Buddhist and there's even a Christian church. Arriving here in the evening is nice. The main drag looks like an amusement park. There are neon lights covering the streets, and just a touch from the road is a ferris wheel. Fun! And the people. I'm the only foreigner and yet everyone greets me with smiles. The manager of the hotel drew me a detailed map of the town so that I could catch a songtheow (orange pick-up truck with benches in the back, a makeshift bus) to the ferry tomorrow morning. She included distance (150 meters) from block to block, churches and mosques, banks and restaurants. This puppy is handy.

I cruised Satun's night market for a bite to eat and picked up the essentials. Bread for breakfast, cashews and a pear. This night market is a wonder. All kinds of meat on a stick, balls of all sorts, as well, whether meat cheese, rice, or a surprise, and there is this big block of black gelatin on ice. No clue. Wait...was that jelly doughnuts? Why, yes. It was. And here's pizza. Not only religiously diverse but also gastronomically? For a tiny town that no one really thinks to visit, this place is a festival! Go 'head Satun. I brought a little something back for the manager and her daughter to snack on. Kindness begets kindness.