Angkor

Siem Reap's main attraction is Angkor Wat. Temples upon temples pepper the city, built in the 10th to 12th centuries in Cambodia. Talk about amazing. A three-day pass for $40 and you, too, can visit as many of the 2,000+ temples possible.

The beginning of our Angkor Wat extravaganza started this morning with Angkor Thom. What once was the capital city of the Khmer empire, it was erected in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. Five main gates of entry and exit, we entered through the southern gate. Symbols of good and evil, the balance in nature, line the entrance. To the left, gods, the right demons, both supporting Naga, the snake deity. Nine square kilometers, five years, a million people and 4,000 elephants, and poof! You've got a city complete with temples, jails, dancing halls, libraries and then some. To light the city in the evenings, workers cut small holes in the trunks of gum trees and lit them on fire. For two hours the flames would burn in the trees lighting the paths. As you walk, you can still see this practice being used.

Kim, our guide, told us a lot about the Khmer kingdom. King Jayavarman VII, who ruled from the late 1100s to the early 1200s, erected many of the temples still standing in Cambodia today. A Buddhist himself, but respectful of the Hindu religion, many of the temples built under his rule honor both religions. His successor a Hindu and nowhere near as tolerant of Buddhism as VII had been of Hinduism, Jayavarman VIII stripped Buddhist temples of sculptures, carvings, anything reminiscent of Buddha. It's a shame. In many of the temples, ornate carvings and sculptures that have somehow lasted all this time center around a figure of the Buddha that has been stripped blank. In the Bayon temple, towers still stand in honor of Buddhism, but were augmented after Jayavarman VII's death to reflect Hindu influences.

On to Angkor Wat in the afternoon, I wasn't sure I was ready. There's something so magical about walking in the footsteps of those who lived a thousand years ago. And being in a wonder of the world? It's a big deal.

The only temple that faces the west, Angkor Wat was built during the rule of Suryavarman II, 30 years prior to Jayavarman VII. Dedicated to Vishnu, it is the only temple to face westward. Across the moat, along the esplanade entrance lie two pools covered in lily pads. Boys swam in one in the heat of the afternoon. Inside, carvings of ancient Hindu stories and morals cover the walls. The churning of the sea of milk, battles of monkeys and demons, Apsara dancers, it's exquisite. Struck with awe and disbelief, it's amazing to think that stones brought from mountains hundreds of kilometers away on the back of elephants, were pieced together to make this structure almost a thousand years ago. And it still stands. One must also give a 'merci' to the French and their efforts in restoration. Incredible.

We closed out the afternoon hiking a bit to watch the sunset from Phnom Bakheng. Built in the 9th century with 109 towers, there are six steep and narrow staircases to maneuver before reaching the top. Clouds rolled in on us and we made the descent just before the storm.