Hoi Anne!

Back on the night sleeper bus headed to Hoi An, the guidebook I have states that the stretch from Nha Trang to Hoi An is the fifth circle of hell. Great. One of the bus attendants strung a hammock up in the stairwell at the foot of my bed. At his insistence, any time I wanted to exit the bus, I had to climb over someone else in his or her bed. "Pardon me, bud, but you're working. Wake up. Move. Move. Please. Thank you." And piss off. Argh.

My blanket smelled soiled. And my pillow left my face feeling...waxy. Oh, the joys of traveling. The upside: I met a lovely Israeli trio and yet another bad-ass New Yorker! Funny how less than desirable circumstances can bring people together. We made it to Hoi An and scoped out one hotel before settling in at Hoang Trinh Hotel. The ladies of the house greeted us with cloths to wipe our faces (yes, still waxy) and glasses of cool water, even before the discussion of room and board began. Such a simple gesture, but so appreciated. It's so nice to be treated like a person from time to time, not just a disgusting, dare I say, backpacker. If you're in Hoi An, please stay at this place. A double is $12 a night with a full tub, t.v., air conditioning, internet, and the hotel even serves food. The upstairs rooms have balconies overlooking a Chinese temple. But really, the staff is what makes the stay worth it. They're just so nice.

Out and about, Sean (New Yorker by birth now living in Hawaii) and I cruised the town and the river. Hoi An is small and quaint. A city of wooden shophouses, streets and a Japanese bridge, and named a UNESCO world heritage site, it has some of Viet Nam's oldest remaining structures and streets. It's small and great for walking. And tailors. Hoi An is the spot to have clothes made. Mannequins of all colors and cuts, you can't imagine trying on winter coats, dripping with sweat. But it happens! All fit and cut for you, your measurements. This place is magic.

P.S. Did you see the classic pink Vespa??